Category Archives: Nepal

@ 31 August 2015- Nepal to India

Kakarvitta boarder crossing into India
Kakarvitta boarder crossing into India

The morning started with a pleasant surprise as the hotel staff kindly washed our bikes for us. we gladly gave the chap who washed them a healthy tip as a result.

The boarder crossing was only a couple of hundred meters away from our hotel making an easy start. Steve had to educate the local Nepalese customs guy on how to complete the Carne paperwork, after which it was a simple case of getting through immigration and off to India. Once in India we had to do the same thing again before we were allowed to proceed. The process was a fairly quick, only taking 2 hours to complete the crossing.

Crowds gathering to check us our at the boarder crossing
Crowds gathering to check us our at the boarder crossing

Shortly after we got underway it started to rain very heavily which certainly makes for hard going. Typically we simply don’t bother with wet weather clothing as the temps are so high its easier to just get soaked and hope to dry off as if the weather eases.

I noticed that a support strut on the rear of Steve’s bike had broken and was hanging down. The strut was part of his pannier frames and was critical to their support. I flagged him over and we then had to work out how to get it fixed.

Steve's Tourtech Pannier support that broke
Steve’s Tourtech Pannier support that broke

Fortunately an old traffic cop was standing by and took Steve with the broken part off to a local firm and 1/2hr later they were back with it nicely welded and ready to refit.

The repair made to the pannier support
The repair made to the pannier support

We were soon back on the road and the rain had not stopped. We were now faced with extremely dangerous traffic conditions due huge pot holes and buses and trucks swerving into our path to avoid them.  At one point while riding behind Steve I witnessed him having to drop his right shoulder in order to miss being hit by an oncoming bus!

One other incident that occurred was a car pulling out in front of Steve which was an extremely concerning moment. This resulted in a heated discussion with us explaining to the driver, the errors of his ways.

It was after this we decided to get off the roads early as we spotted a hotel and headed straight for it. The hotel staff were very obliging and made every effort to assist us in drying our clothes.

We were glad to be off the road and dry at last.

@ 30 August 2015- Nepal

Chitwan to Kakarvitta was a distance of 481km and was pretty straight forward. We had approx 80km of rough road to start but then it opened up to good sealed roads.

There had been several riots and a strike in the region over the past days causing a lack of supply to petrol stations and due to the strike those that may have had fuel remained closed. This was now causing a problem for us.

After searching for around 80km;s we came across an open station, the problem was approx 200 other motorcycles had arrived before us! This would have meant an hour or two of queuing but thanks to the local police we were quickly ushered to the front of the que  and allowed to fill our bikes. 50 litres of fuel and we were sorted. Both Steve and I felt rather sheepish for being allowed to the front of the que, we quickly scampered off before anyone could say anything.

The temps were low 30’s early but cooled down in afternoon which was a pleasant change especially as you become more weary.

Kakarvitta is the town on the boarder with India and we located a reasonable hotel that also had a casino attached. No locals were allowed in the casino so it was full of Indians who come over the boarder to gamble, get drunk and then stagger back home penny less. The casino was not out thing so we left after a quick tour.

Statistics

Distance for week – 844km

Average speed to date – 52.0km/h

Average fuel consumption to date – 4.7litre per 100km

@ 29 August 2015- Nepal

Steve getting to know the elephant
Steve getting to know the elephant

It had rained really heavy over night with significant thunder and lightning making us wonder what our day was going to be like?

Fortunately  the rain had all but cleared and Day 2 of our Chitwan Natioanl Park adventure was taken up with a walk in the morning with our host (Sahodar) who did a great job of explaining the local Chitwan culture and history. Chitwan people first settled here after moving north to avoid the ongoing battles with Mongal tribes many centuries ago.

Another interesting fact is that the local Chitwans had become to malaria due to their diet (including drinking rice wine) and coating themselves in an ancient treatment.

The local houses were simple mud brick huts and in more recent times using concrete if you are one of the “well off”. All properties were supplied with electricity and were charged a minimum of 80rp per month which allowed for a simple light to be run.

Later that morning we were given an educational talk on elephants, which included feeding them their specially prepared food they require. Steve and I both took the opportunity to feed these magnificent animals showing them the respect they deserve.  Unfortunately due to lack of funds they still used shackles to restrict the elephants movement which is something we highlighted to the park needs to stop. We later were shown a trial being funded by the WWF organisation that used a simple electric fence to contain the animals in a larger free roaming enclosure. Let’s hope this is a success and is rolled out more broadly.

Later that afternoon we were taken on a canoe ride down the Rapti river in locally produced wooden craft which took in observing crocodiles along the banks. We then Walked through a section of the jungle to a crocodile conservation facility which was set up in the early 1970’s.

On the walk back to the river we were forced to “sneak past” a rhino that was just ahead of us in the elephant grass. We were only about 20m away from this huge creature. This was truly amazing stuff for Steve and I, especially when the guide calmly pointed out tiger foot prints bigger than a grown mans hand in the sand! What was more concerning was that our guides were only armed with a large pole about 2m in length. I made a joke that I only needed to be the second slowest runner should a tiger attack which went down with a reserved laugh (don’t know why).  The guides were taking their jobs very serious and on a couple of occasions we were asked to be quite!

@ 28 August 2015- Nepal

Elephants chilling out in the river after an amazing ride through the Chitwan National Park.
Elephants chilling out in the river after an amazing ride through the Chitwan National Park.

Our journey today will take us from Kathmandu to Chitwan Natioanl Park, which is a UNESCO recognised world heritage site. Something to really look forward to.

First we had a ride of 165km out of Kathmandu and heading west at first and then dropping south to the park. The roads were heavily eroded in sections making the riding dusty and rough in stages, thankfully the bikes are ideal for covering distances and taking in the rough sections all I their stride.

Arriving midday at Jungle resort located on the banks of the Rapti River alongside the Chitwan National Park we were greeted by the lovely staff  who had lunch ready for us shortly after arrival. We were the only guests in this resort, which was partly due to the season however unfortunately since the earthquake tourists had simply stopped coming which is very sad for the community that rely on tourism as its main source of income.

At 4:00pm we were off on an elephant ride through the park which ran for nearly 3hrs. To ride atop elephants and seeing animals such as Rhino’s, Spotted deer, Hog deer, Monkeys and a Crocodile was something we shall never forget.  Apparently Tigers and Leopards also roam free in this jungle, although are endangered species due to hunting in the past. It is a credit to the staff of the park and the army that now guard the Chitwan that no poaching deaths have been recorded of animals in the past two years. Let’s hope this continues.

The evening was a relaxed time spent chatting to the staff of the resort and sneaking a cold beer which went very well with the locally sourced and produced dinner.

 

@ 27 August 2015- Nepal

A lay day in Kathmandu meant updating the blog after such a long spell without Internet access.
A lay day in Kathmandu meant updating the blog after such a long spell without Internet access.

As part of the stuff that goes on behind the scenes when undertaking an adventure such as our Mad Ride, is planning and booking the coming days and weeks ahead for such things as visa’s, sites to see, routes, weather reports, accommodation, finances, bike requirements and not to forget the washing and updating our blog.

Previously we had advised our Myanmar guide (a Myanmar visa requirement) that we were expecting to arrive at the boarder around 7th September, however it was now evident we will make the boarder approx 5 days early. We had been attempting to change the start date of the leg but due to the Myanmar beurocrisy this was now not looking possible causing us to reschedule our coming days.

Steve took on the task of coming up with the change in schedule and I sat down and worked on the blog, as it was the first time we had acceptable Internet connectivity since leaving Turkey.

The day was spent bashing away on my iPad in a local cafe and Steve investigating and booking a wildlife safari tour with a local travel agent. Maybe not the most exciting day but a productive one, none the less.

Tomorrow we are off to Chitwan Natioanal Park.

@ 26 August 2015- Nepal

 

This is one of the many temples throughout Kathmandu and has suffered due to the recent earthquake
This is the Monkey temples high up on a hill in Kathmandu and has suffered due to the recent earthquake.

After arriving yesterday in Kathmandu it was time to get out and explore the sites of the city. Although the capital city of Nepal it was great that the pace was still not as manic as we found in the typical larger Indian cities. It made getting about somewhat less stressful.

After a 2km walk we arrived at the Swayambhunath (aka Monkey Temple) which has the large gold topped temple as the centre piece and various shrines surrounding it. This Buddhist religious temple is ancient, however in recent years has suffered due to a lightning strike and the earthquake earlier this year.

There are 365 stairs on the approach to the temple (one for each day of the year) making getting there a serious task due to being on such a steep hill. The resident goats and monkeys did not seam to mind however.

Damage to the old building in the Town Square has been significant with many reduced to rubble due to the earthquake
Damage to the old building in the Town Square has been significant with many reduced to rubble due to the earthquake

Next we were off to Durbar Square which many of you may have seen in the news reports following the earth quake. This part of town is full of buildings that are considered UNESCO world heritage sites and it is such a shame to see the damage that occurred on that faithful day on 25 April of this year when the major earthquake hit this area. Hopefully in time and a lot of hard work many of these buildings will be returned to their former beauty.

Another one of the remaining historical building that requires significant support
Another of the remaining historical buildings that requires significant support

The final stop off for the day was to visit Shree Pashupatinath Temple which is a Hindu temple and burial place, located along the banks of the Bagmati River in Kathmandu. To see bodies being cremated in open view and the grief families are going through when saying good by to their loved ones was quite confronting. The cremation process takes 4hrs and afterwards the remains are tipped into the river alongside where the process takes place.

After bodies are tipped into the river, children jump into the river and try to retrieve an jewellery the deceased may have been wearing! Odd but true.

A poor person's cremation in Kathmandu
A poor person’s cremation in Kathmandu

@ 25 August 2015- Nepal

We had enjoyed Pokhara and this morning we left to make our way to Kathmandu. Upon leaving Pokhara we got to understand the real size of this city as we we staying at “lake side” which had a very different feel to the commercial side of the city which we found ourselves navigating. The commercial side was exactly that, busy, more people and stuff happening.

The ride was very pleasant except for the pollution from the trucks. At one point we encountered a severe traffic jam as we negotiated a mountain pass which caused problems for the bikes getting very hot due to lack of progress and high ambient temps.

We finally made Kathmandu, time to celebrate!
We finally made Kathmandu, time to celebrate!

We made it into Kathmandu and the GPS thankfully negotiated the small streets of the city well, taking us to the hotel we had arranged to stay at that night. Steve had unfortunately dropped his bike as we were making our way in traffic as he put his left foot down which went into a hole allowed the heavy bike to tip and go over. Fortunately no injuries or damage, but just a big effort for us both to lift the 280kg BMW upright once more.

The  day finished with a well earned beer and a walk to get accustomed with the area.

Although these looked like apples we were advised they were a type of lemon?
Although these looked like apples we were advised they were a type of lemon?
For all those "insurance people" it amazing what you see in Kathmandu!
For all those “insurance people” it amazing what you see in Kathmandu! busker with a GIO cap.

 

@ 24 August 2015- Nepal

A Nepali cover band at a genies we were at last night celebrating
A Nepali cover band at a genies we were at last night celebrating

Today  turned out to be a slow day as we decided to stay in Pokhara for another day to sort our washing as everything was wet and dirty after the previous day’s being up in the Annapurna Ranges, oh and we I was also suffering from a bit of a hangover from celebrating with the Hearts & Tears Royal Enfield Rental crew which went on very late.

Mutu from Hearts & Tears after a few beers. Great times
Mutu from Hearts & Tears after a few beers. Great times

Steve and I bumped into a couple of the guys we had been out with the night before and they noted everyone was feeling rough today, I did not feel so bad after hearing that. Ha Ha

Bush from Hearts & Tears out with us. Great fun
Bush from Hearts & Tears out with us. Great fun

@ 23 August 2015- Nepal

Today was the ride back to Pokhara and to finish up our ride.

The day started with pretty good wether and progressively got quite hot and humid, however the final leg into Pokhara the rain fell for a short period.

There was still plenty of mud to negotiate throughout the ride, so deep in places that it would simply drag your feet off the pegs and you were doing all you could to keep the bike and yourself upwright. It was loads of fun however as both Steve and I were amazed at how robust the bikes were as we were riding “road bikes” in places We would not want to take our big BMW GS Adventures!

The mud caught Steve out here and it was a laugh to be behind and watch it all unfold. Ha
The mud caught Steve out here and it was a laugh to be behind and watch it all unfold. Ha
Local growers carry these baskets with straps over their heads for kilometres selling their produce as they go. Hard work!
Local growers carry these baskets with straps over their heads for kilometres selling their produce as they go. Hard work!

As we passed along the one road in and out of this area of Nepal we would come accross individual traders who would carry huge loads of produce and sell to house holds along the way. This is very hard way to make a living but the locals always are friendly and have a smile waiting for you.

Unfortunately Steve’s bike had an electrical fault a couple of hours ride short of Pokhara which halted our journey for an hour or so while Mutu, our guide went and found another ignition coil to replace the faulty part.

Steve on the longest suspension bridge in Nepal. Yeh, it's certainly long when you start to walk on it!
Steve on the longest suspension bridge in Nepal. Yeh, it’s certainly long when you start to walk on it!

Fortunately it gave time for Steve and I to venture down to the nearby huge suspension bridge and walk accross. Yes, it’s long and yes it’s very odd walking across it.

We made it back to Pokhare all ok and met up with the rest of the Hearts & Tears bike rental team to laugh about what we had been up to. It was hot and we deserved a beer so we all agreed to catch up at one of the local bars for a drink in an hour. A great way to finish our ride.

Statistics For The Week;

Distance travelled for the week: 1,056km

Average  Spped to Date: 50.8km/h

Average Fuel Consumption to Date: 4.6 litre per 100km

@ 22 August 2015- Nepal

Typical scenery as we made our way along
Typical scenery as we made our way along

Day 2 Enfield Ride was certainly proving to be a great adventure, both in terms of bike riding and the experience of being in these amazing Annapurna Ranges.

Firsty the mechanic who brought the new brake lever had to fit it to my bike, also replacing the front brake pads as they were worn down to the metal and also re attached the exhaust muffler that had fallen off in the latter part of our ride yesterday. This was before we set off for the day! Ha

We headed further north and shortly found our selves at a large waterfall that was blocking the road for anything but large trucks. Our guide enlisted the help of several local lads who carried the bikes down the hillside across a rickety footbridge and back up the other side in order to get around the obstacle. We were back under way.

At around lunch time Steve’s bike decided to stop due to an electrical problem. The fault was eventually diagnosed as a faulty ignition coil which meant our guide had to ride off to the local town and find one, which he did and eventually we were back under way, albeit running behind by now.

Having to pay locals to carry the bikes up the hillside due to impassable roads
Having to pay locals to carry the bikes up the hillside due to impassable roads
Steve's bike had rouble with the ignition along the way. Nothing that was not fixable out here.
Steve’s bike had rouble with the ignition along the way. Nothing that was not fixable out here.

We had lunch at a small township Marpha before heading back towards the our stop for the night at a small hotel in a quaint valley.

Steve dropped his bike a couple of times as the conditions were very difficult with deep mud and water crossing with large round rocks to ride accoss.

Before the day’s end, Mahitah  our guide found the rear brake lever that had broken off my bike which was quite amazing considering the deep mud.