All posts by David Madell

Born (1966) in Sydney, Australia to English parents I have a strong connection with both England and Australia. Having been given a mini bike for my 4th birthday and experiencing the fun and excitement riding motor bikes brings I am now about to embark on the journey of my life.

@ 26 July 2015- Iran

Today we were looking forward to our ride to Karaj (near Tehran) to meet up with my work mates (Milad) parents. I had already met Fariba (Milad’s mum) some months early during her visit to Sydney so it was going to be great to meet again but this time in Faribas home town.

The ride turned out to be the most pleasurable ride we had in Iran, making our way up and over a heavily vegitated mountain pass over 2200m high. The  ride was broken up by a couple of extensive roads works which we simply lane split and made our way to the front which allowed a clean get away when the traffic was waived on.

We arrived at Karaj which is a very large city of several million people and stopped for fuel. A local family asked us if we were ok and upon explaining where we wished to go, offered to escort us (about 10km’s) to where we were to meet Milad’s family. We took up their offer which made the final ride in much easier than navigating ourselves.

While waiting for our friends to arrive the local police offered us to stay in their air conditioned office which was very welcome when you are wearing full riding gear in 36deg temps.

Fariba and her husband, Kamran soon arrived and and it was clear they were very pleased to see us. We then had the task of following Karmran through the streets of inner Karaj which proved interested based on the Iranian people drive.

We arrived at Faribas wonderful inner city apartment and were immediately overwhelmed with the hospitality shown by Fariba, Kamran and Fariba’s good friend, Babnan.

It was great to relax and have the comfort of having local people offer to show you the sites of Tehran and provide accomodation for the next couple of days.

Weekly Statistics

Distance travelled for week- 1,876km

Average speed to date- 61.8km/h

Average fuel consumption to date- 4.9 litres per 100km

@ 25 July 2015- Iran

 

Everywhere people were so friendly wanting us to eat with them and offering food
Everywhere people were so friendly wanting us to eat with them and offering food

Today we were to carry on down the coast to Salman Shahr on our ways towards the capital of Tehran.

The day was a pretty non eventful day. The water Mellon had been stolen over night so we did not have breakfast before hitting the road.

The traffic was continuing to be a major concern due to the very dangerous manoures that drivers did at high speed. This was proving to take the shine off what could have been a far more pleasurable ride down the Caspian coastline.

We stopped off at a “posh” restaurant for lunch that provided free WiFi. This was a first for us since arriving in Iran. We took the time to catch up on a few emails and realised Facebook was blocked. Apparently the locals simply download an App that provides a VPN which allows you to circumvent the block.  We did not know this.

The he humidity along the coast was extremely high and although the temps were not as high as inland it left you dripping with sweet at the slightest activity.

The day ended at Salman Shahr where we stayed at a very low cost hotel that did not have parking. Fortunately a local man suggested we park the bikes in his locked compound property for safety which we gladly did. He was a solicitor from Tehran and once again proved how kind the people of Iran could be.

 

@ 24 July- Iran

 

Camping
Camping in a car park. Slept well

After packing up camp the day started with a visit to the local hot baths in Sarein. The water temp was up near 52deg C and very soothing to laze around in.  Men and women are separated when bathing.

We we managed to drag ourselves out of the relaxing baths and headed to the coast which ran along the Azabijan boarder for some time.  The region was mountainous with forests and many villages spread throughout the area.

Camp site
Stopping for a tea means also holding a conference with many locals

Everywhere we were stopping the local people were very intrigued by our bikes and Steve and I. When they realised where we were from we were constantly offered Chai (tea) and food which was typically fruit due to the warm temps. People were asking “did we like their country?” And they were very generous.

Unfortunately we we found those same people who were out picnicking for example would simply leave all their rubbish behind which resulted in the majority of sites we stopped at being littered with vast quantities of rubbish which sort of took the shine off stopping.

For lunch we stopped at Astara which gave us our first view of the Caspian Sea which was a landmark moment for both Steve and I.

After lunch we headed south along the coast line to end up at the “International Tourist Park” in Talesh. The name may have been a slight over statement however it gave us the opportunity to set up camp 20m from the sea shore and relax with the locals for the evening.

Swimming in the Caspian sea was a great experience, with very warm, calm water. Men and women were separated once again while swimming.

We were unaware when we arrived that the park was actually open all night and the locals would soon turn up to set up and have dinner (around 9:00pm) and proceed to party till the small hours of the night. Steve and I resorted to ear plugs to get to sleep.

Once agin the locals were proving to be very welcoming with Steve being given a whole water melon at one stage (only to be stolen over night). We were invited to sit with families and sit on their mats and relax which was a welcome relief after the experiences we had while riding.

@ 23 July 2015- Iran

 

A typical fuel stop.
A typical fuel stop.

After yesterday crossing the boarder and realising we could not access our bank accounts we needed to work out what to do next……. Time for a meeting!

When undertaking adventures such as ours, relationships are very important and in this case I was fortunate to have my Iranian work friend Milad Shahraiary back in Sydney and along with my wife (Kathy) who worked quickly to have funds transferred over to Milad’s parents in Tehran. After a few emails we had it sorted (big thanks to all involved).

So we had enough US$’s that we could exchange to get us comfortably by until we made Tehran and met up with Milad’s family, so we were underway and off in the direction of Tabriz.

The riding down to Tabriz (300km) was straight forward with passing over 2000m altitude at one point and spending most of the day above 1600m.

Just after lunch we made our way through Tabriz at which point while we were stationary in a manic traffic jam, I was hit by a car and knocked off my bike falling into the side of another car damaging the car door. At this point the Iranian driver received a lesson in French from me as I was dumbfounded by the irational behaviour of the drivers. Iranian drivers were clearly proving to be the most dangerous we had experienced so far on our Mad Ride

Luckily I was not injured and the bike was ok, we left the other drivers to sort out the damage to the car and were more wary from that point on. We pushed on to Sarein on our way towards the Caspian Sea.

Sarien is a popular holiday destination for Iranians due the natural hot volcanic springs that are in the area that we are “told” have therapeutic properties.

Due to the large number of visitors at the time a local car park was opened up as a camping ground which is where we ended up for the night.

@ 22 July 2015- Turkey To Iran

This  picture of a snow covered mountain was taken while riding in 31deg heat and sweat running off me! Odd sensation.
This picture of a snow covered mountain was taken while riding in 31deg heat and sweat running off me! Odd sensation.

The journey today was from Mus, Turkey crossing the boarder into Iran at Bazargan.

The road climbed to just over 2000m and as we road around Lake Van we really did see some wonderful views.  We stopped off along the shores of the lake at what looked like a deserted holiday park, only to find it open and serving drinks and a packet of biscuit that went down a treat.

The view sitting on the shore of Lake Van at the "deserted resort"
The view sitting on the shore of Lake Van at the “deserted resort”

The temps were climbing into the mid 30’s and a welcome drop in temp as we climbed over the mountains where we arrived in Dogubayazit (we named this place Dog Town as it was easier to pronounce).

We arrived at around 3:00pm and still feeling fresh(ish) we decided to make a run for the boarder to cross into Iran that evening.

We arrived at the boarder and the exit from Turkey went nice and straight forward, however the Iranian side challenged due to the language barrier. Fortunately we found a friendly English speaking person who assisted greatly with the paperwork and it was all over within a couple of hours.

Unfortunately the boarder town of Bazargan was not a good place, with what appeared everyone trying to rip you off and had a very unsafe feel to it.

Converting the few US$'s we had into Iranian which you count in the thousands! This was US$400 being exchanged.
Converting the few US$’s we had into Iranian which you count in the thousands! This was US$400 being exchanged.

Once  we found a hotel for the night we asked for the ATM cash machine, only to be informed that our cards would not work in Iran due to the country not being part of the international banking protocols (due to sanctions). Suddenly we found ourselves in a country with no access to money! All the research and discussions we made prior had not brought up this issue, fortunately Steve and I had US$’s as a backup stashed away which got us out of trouble for night. Tomorrow is another day.

@ 21 July 2015- Turkey

Steve sorting out his tyres at Harput Motorcycles.
Steve sorting out his tyres at Harput Motorcycles.

Today was all about getting the tyres sorted for Steve’s bike and U.S. Getting back on the road, oh and also hoping I was going to be feeling better from my bout of a very questionable tummy.

Well, I woke feeling a bit better and our the tyres were at the shop awaiting our arrival. Our friend came and kindly escorted us to his shop where the 3 tyres that Steve had ordered were sitting. Great to see the tyres but we soon noticed 2 of the tyres were the wrong model (tread type) we had ordered.

We had the one rear tyre fitted and that sorted our immediate issue, however it was somewhat difficult to explain and negotiate when neither of the parties could understand each other. The tyres were also non returnable to the distributor as they were a special order. Somewhere in the original conversations re the tyres our friends miss understood we think and hence the wrong order.

Steve finally worked out a solution and we were able to be on our way, but by this time it was already 1.30pm. We were kindly escorted to the highway we needed to head east and we stopped for a bite to eat before parting company with our escort and we could get on.

Having a bite to eat with our escort from town.
Having a bite to eat with our escort from town.
A young petrol attendant takes an opportunity to climb on board for a photo.
A young petrol attendant takes an opportunity to climb on board for a photo.

By the end of the day we managed approx 250km’s and have stopped in Mus for the night, leaving us a approx a 300km ride tomorrow in order to get to the border town and hopefully I will be able to eat as normal?

@ 20 July 2015- Turkey

David being taken out by locals for nuts and a special drink to cure his tummy.
David being taken out by locals for nuts and a special drink to cure his tummy.

We received news this morning that the tyres for Steve’s bike will arrive tomorrow morning which was a positive start to the day.

Unfortunately I (David) had woken up with a very queasy tummy which as the morning went on it simply knocked the stuffing out of me! So the plans for today of washing the bikes etc were shelved in favour of staying close to the hotel room.

Steve took the opportunity to visit an Internet cafe and downloaded his movie files and backed stuff up which invariably takes a lot of time and patients on Steve’s part when using foreign language computers. I took the time to lay down and rest.

All the rest I was getting did an amazing job on assisting my sprained ankle in getting better. I am pleased to report  at least one part is on the mend! Ha

We finished off the washing and we then started to hear the news of the ISIS suicide bombing in Suruc, Turkey which is a border town with Syria. It has been a terrible day for Turkey with dozen’s killed. Fortunately we are well aware of the trouble zones and are currently 300km’s away from that area.

This is the typical site when washing is done. There is a TV behind there somewhere.
This is the typical site when washing is done. There is a TV behind there somewhere.

Later in the afternoon our Turkish friend Zuilfi Dal came by as he was aware I had an upset stomach and he insisted I take a local remedy of a certain type of nut and a random fizzy drink. That was not before we stopped off at his mates shop where he proceeded to explain my problem to anyone of the locals who cared to listen, which was then followed by a good round of laughter by the locals and pointing at me! It was a funny moment however.

So I have taken the nuts and drank the fizzy drink and it’s now a couple of hours on and things do appear positive.

Tomorrow we hope things go to plan and we should be on our way to towards Iran this time tomorrow with a shiny new tyre on Steve’s bike.

 

@ 19 July 2015- Turkey

You can buy anything here! Even pistols without too much trouble.
You can buy anything here! Even pistols without too much trouble.

Today has been a rest day staying in Elazig. Steve’s tyre is not due in till Tuesday now so we shall be staying here till we get the tyre sorted. By last night I (David) started to have a distinct uncomfortable right ankle as a result of the crash yesterday. When I woke up the ankle was clearly swollen (not too bad) and very stiff. As a result we made the call to not do much and just recharge our batteries. So today consisted of washing our clothes (the hotel room is like a Chinese laundry at present), getting food supplies from the local shop catching with our Turkish friends for Cai (tea) and a chat and generally mooching about. Oh, we also had time to watch England play France in the David Cup tennis! I took the opportunity to also keep my ankle elevated whenever possible as I do not want this injury hanging around. Tomorrow we are off to the motor bike shop of our friends where we plan to wash the bikes and run a spanner over them.

Weekly Statistics;

Kilometres for the week – 1,899km

Average speed to date – 74.1km/h

Average fuel consumption to date – 5.1 litres per 100km

Punctures – 1 to Steve’s rear tyre

Crashes – 1 to David

Post Script; Shortly following posting the day’s events while sitting in the hotel lobby, a brawl started just outside the hotel. Large crowds, Police and several Turks were engaged in “conversation” with the Police doing what appeared a very good job of control the environment without undue force.

The end score was the Police “nicked” three men and when we asked what had caused the disturbance would you believe alcohol was the answer! Things are the same the world over!

@ 18 July 2015- Turkey

An ancient Turkish version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!
An ancient Turkish version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa!

Today was going to be an easy one for us, after yesterday organising a tyre for Steve’s bike we only had a 100km ride to a near by town of Elazig to meet up with the owner of a bike shop who was to supply the tyre.

After pulling into a service station and asking the manager for assistance in directions to get to the shop, he was soon on the phone and we were advised to stay put as the shop owner was coming to us!

Meeting up with our Tyre contact person Oktar at a petrol station.
Meeting up with our Tyre contact person Oktar at a petrol station.

After a short waite a lovely chap by the name of Oktar Dal who owns Harput Motosiklet appeared and was soon escorting us into town. The next thing we pulled up outside a corner shop to visit Oktar’s brother and cousins and to have a tea with them. No rush here.

This chap was described to us as the town nutter! Everybody knows and loves him though. Ha
This chap was described to us as the town nutter! Everybody knows and loves him though. Ha

 

Oktar then left his van and jumped on the back of my bike and we were off to visit the ancient sites of Harput. It was as though around every corner there was some ancient relic. Nothing was too much trouble and we stopped after a short while for lunch in a lovely shaded outside cafe for a cooked meet and salad lunch.

An ancient church at Harput. One of many relics.
An ancient church at Harput. One of many relics.

The return trip to Elazig unfortunately went pear shape after David’s off (see other post for details). We did make it back to town and have found a hotel ($35au per night) for the next two nights as Steve’s tyre will arrive in two days  in the mean time we are meeting Oktar tonight for a meal and hopefully we can laugh at today’s events.

 

@ 18 July 2015- Turkey (David’s Fall)

David's Crash
Shortly after I dropped the bike. Not happy with myself!

Today was going so well, we had met up earlier in the with our motor bike shop contact, Oktay Dal of Harput Motosiklet. Oktay had jumped on the back of my bike and we were doing a scenic tour of his local area that he was so proud to show off. See our regular daily post for the scenery.

Unfortunately due to my (David) stupidity I managed to crash my bike on a down hill right hand hairpin bend and in the process injuring our poor host by skinning his right arm. Words cannot describe how bad I am feeling right now. You can see from the pic’s the bike has only minor scratches and my riding gear a slight tear in the right elbow and also the knee. Poor Oktay was not wearing any protection (know one does over here) and as a result scrapped his arm.

He he was ever so polite about the whole incident and kept playing it down. Sorry Oktay.

The crash was a combination of  primarily me just getting it wrong by not allowing for the extra weight, the unsuspecting slippery roads that frequently appear over here and not getting on the power early enough which simply overloaded the grip on the front wheel and the front slid out from under us.

David's Crash skid
Steve guiding motorists around. You can see where we slid by the marks.
Damaged Riding Gear
Slight damage to David’s riding gear.
image
Apart from the scrapes on the right hand pannier, no other damage of note.

This is the first at fault road crash I have ever had in my riding career (oh, I did drop my bike in a driveway once).

The crash has certainly served as a very real warning to me and for my loved ones reading this post, I shall definitely be treading more carefully from now on.