Category Archives: India

@ 17 August 2015- India

Our ride today was from from Agra to Lucknow and totalled 480km’s in distance and was simply a transport ride together to the Nepal boarder.

As usual we stopped at a road side restaurant for lunch, the food was pretty good (local India dish that we can’t remember the name of). Soon after eating the food we looked around to see the dishes that we had just been eating from being washed in a mucky whole…. Lovely!

A typical road side restaurant that we stop at
A typical road side restaurant that we stop at
This is where the dishes are washed.... Yuk!
This is where the dishes are washed…. Yuk!

Major roads pretty much all the way which was a result, however we missed a turn which resulted us ending up arriving at Lucknow at peak traffic which is a real problem on the big BMW’s. It took two hours to travel 8km.

At one of the stops unfortunately Steve dropped his bike when taking it off the stand. Thankfully the locals were there to help and soon got the bike upwright.

We had a few heavy showers which resulted in us getting soaked but when temps are in the low 30’s it’s is nice relief. At one stage the rain was so heavy we were down to 60km/h on a major highway.

the countryside was very green and we noticed a cart being towed by camel’s which was the first time on our travels we had seen this.

For some reason there were a large number of vehicle that took to driving down the wrong side of a dual carriageway, head on into the opposing traffic, rather than sticking to their side of the road. Very dangerous as it would at times have vehicles going in all directions to avoid the idiots.

We arrived quite late, around 9:00pm at the hotel which was nice compared to what we had been staying in, but still no wifi.

@ 16 August 2015- India

The two of us taking in the Taj!
The two of us taking in the Taj!

It was an early start for the day as we we advised to get to the Tajmahal early due to the huge crowds that develope as the day goes on and today was only going to be worse due to the holiday weekend.

So we were out the door at around 06:40am heading to the East gate entry with tickets in hand that we had already purchased yesterday. Arriving early certainly gave us the best opportunity to view this wonder of the world as there were limited numbers of people about.

The building itself is amazing with with such detail and symmetrical layout. Steve found it peacefull an serene to look at where as I found it huge, but actually quite simple being all white and symmetrical. We both agreed it is like no other building we have seen.

The amazing Tajmahal
The amazing Tajmahal

On the way back we stopped and had breakfast at a great little cafe that actually served a good cappuccino which was a bit of a standout for this town.

In the afternoon it was off to see the Old Forte which is a military establishment that was originally built around 1,000a.d. And has been added to in several stages since.

The Entry to the Old Forte which is a very impressive sight
The Entry to the Old Forte which is a very impressive sight
A section of forte
A section of forte

We relaxed in the evening on the rooftop restaurant back at the hotel watching the sun go down over Agra with the Tajmahal n the background. Not a bad way to spend an evening.

Statistics For The Week;

Distance travelled for week: 738km

Average Speed for Trip: 58.1km/h

Average Fuel Consumption To Date: 4.5 litre per 100km

@ 15 August 2015- India

Our hotel entrance in Agra. The word "Palace" may be an over statement. Ha
Our hotel entrance in Agra. The word “Palace” may be an over statement. Ha

Leaving Delhi heading to Agra is our our plan for today. It is also India’s celebration of their day of Indipendance which meant traffic was light early on.

We passed the new Formula1 GP circuit (called Buddh International Raceway) at greater Noida which looked rather impressive against the backdrop of Basic Indian livages.

As we entered Agra there was massive traffic issues with crashes and congestion with some rain falling to add to the fun. We were advised to turn around and take an alternative route which meant back streets which were also heavily congested.

As a result of the congestion for an extended period the bikes were suffering from potentially overheating which meant a couple of forced stops to allow them to cool.

The ride was only 225km’s in length however due to the congestion it dealt much longer.

We arrived at the hotel which involved a very tight fit for the bikes and the Manager kindly let us park the bikes in the laundry section of his own home!

The hotel (Saniya Palace) we found hardly a “palace”, with no water in our room, no internet, smelly to the point we insisted on moving rooms. Mind you we only paid approx $25 for the room. The upside was that it did have a clear view of the Tajmahal from the rooftop restaurant .

The view from out bedroom while staying at Agra. Yes, that's the Tajmahal in the background
The view from out bedroom while staying at Agra. Yes, that’s the Tajmahal in the background

Folowing our complaint the Manager transferred us to the roof top room which also had direct views of the “Taj” which sort of made up for the other rough bits.

@ 14 August 2015- India

Bike service
Finally I collected my bike complete with new tyres

It’ s Friday morning and we are planning to leave at latest Saturday morning to head towards Nepal and with Saturday being a holiday due to the Indian Independence day I had to have my tyres arrive and fitted today. With great assistance from the team at The Vibe Hotel who made numerous phone calls and even called their account manager at head office who also uses the same carrier we managed to get the delivery drivers mobile number! By now it was 10:30am and we managed to speak with the driver who after a quick chat, had the tyres delivered to the dealer within the next half hour; relief!

The tyres were fitted and the bikes were all sorted now ready for the second half of our journey with a clean bill of health. Bring it on!

Steve had been suffering from an iffy tummy over the last day or so and was also feeling somewhat better by the day’s end he was also feeling on the mend so tomorrow we are back on the road.

@ 13 August 2015- India

Today was to be our 3rd day stopping in New Delhi  with my bike being serviced today (hopefully tyres will arrive) and Steve will aim to strap himself in the rental car and let the driver do his thing so he can go back up town for a 3rd day running to collect the visa’s.

I pleased that my bike servicing went well with no additional work required, however I was still awaiting the arrival of the tyres and the week was running out as it was a Thursday already.

Fortunately I had now been sent the consignment details for the tyre shipment so we were now able to chase up the delivery at this end.

Getting the bikes serviced
Getting the bikes serviced
A well deserved clean along with the service
A well deserved clean along with the service

The great news was that Steve collected the visa’s without any hassle. We were both looking forward to visiting Myanmar however the visit process when arriving overland was more difficult as the application date was time critical and had to be done in person rather than a simple prior to our original departure.

@ 12 August- India

A view from Inside our hired car with driver.
A view from Inside our hired car with driver.

After yesterday’s fail in trying to submit our visa applications for Myanmar we had booked the car and driver once more and hit the road early to ensure we made the 10:00am opening to for the embassy office.

We arrived right on time and were second in line and had all our paperwork ready to go. We confidently handed the applications over and within a minute had the bank cheque handed back stating it would not be accepted as the diligent embassy official kindly pointed out that the word “Myanmar” was incorrectly spelt (Mayanmar).

After yesterday’s efforts to lodge our applications and then again today being rejected for such a beurocratic reason both Steve and I tried to reason with the official. Reasoning did not work…….. “Bank fault, bank must fix, not my fault” was pretty much the only response we were offered.

So it was then a mad rush to find another bank that would issue a cheque with the correct spelling. Thanks to some good old fashioned Delhi driving and both Steve and I firmly strapped in the back seat of the car, we soon had the cheque and returned to submit our paperwork with a few minutes to spare before the office shut.  We now hoped that when we return tomorrow that the visas would be granted ok.

On the way back to the hotel it also meant an additional trip to the issuing bank to get our first cheque refunded. Thankfully that went smoothly.

We manged to make it back to the hotel with enough time to drop the bikes off at the BMW dealer and for them to start work on them.  Steve headed back to the hotel to research our next journey leg while I stayed with the bikes to oversee the work being carried out.

Steve’s bike was first and all went well including having the damaged pannier from a couple of days earlier being repaired.  We manged to have the bike sorted and done on the day. Sorted!

The driving tally for the day was that we only hit one Tuk Tuk and and a push bike with no fatalities! Ha Ha

@ 11 August 2015- India

Today was to be a busy day as we had several items to attend to including submitting our visa applications for Myanmar as soon as possible.

Hangin outside the Myanmar Consulate, New Delhi
Hangin outside the Myanmar Consulate, New Delhi, but it was shut!

Fortunetly The Vibe Hotel where we were staying offered a late model hire car with driver for only $36US a full day which worked out a treat when having to navigate Delhi.

Navigating the traffic of Delhi by car
Navigating the traffic of Delhi by car

First we were off to the Myanmar consulate to submit our visa applications. First problem for the day occurs as the visa office is only open between 10:00am & 11:00am daily (despite the website saying all day) and we arrived at 11:40am! It would not have been so bad but due to the traffic and location it was a two hour drive each way. We checked with the guards what we would need for tomorrow and off we went.

Next stop was to visit a camping store as my camel back bladder had failed recently and Steve required a new bag and a top. We were fortunate the driver knew his way around and although we had to use an interpreter via his mobile phone to discuss anything. We were soon at a great little camping store and we were able to get what we wanted.

Next we had a break for food which involved making a quick run from the car to the shop due to the monsoon rain occurring.

After lunch it was off to a bank nearby our hotel to obtain a bank cheque for the visa applications. The first bank had a fault with their printer so we then drove another 15km (each way) to another bank that would provide a cheque.

More on the cheque later but for now it was time to introduce ourselves to the service department of the BMW dealer where we were to get our bikes serviced as they had traveled 14,750kms since last having a spanner on them.

It was great to meet the people I had been emailing some 6 months earlier as part of the preparations for our Mad Ride. We were hoping the tyres I had being shipped from Mumbai (I had pre shipped them there as tyres are not available in India) had not arrived yet. A BIG shout out to Shyam Narayanan who is my Great work colleague back at Suncorp in Sydney who assisted greatly with his cousin in Mumbai to have the tyres shipped. Thanks loads!

We arranged to drop the bikes off tomorrow and hopefully the tyres would be in by then?

We had achieved most of what we wanted but it was going to be a case of heading back to the Myanmar consulate tomorrow to have another go at submitting our visa’s.

No this is not a parking lot, it's typical Delhi traffic, note the folded back mirrors. Who needs them?
No this is not a parking lot, it’s typical Delhi traffic, note the folded back mirrors. Who needs them?

@ 10 August 2015- India

 

The streets have been full of these dressed up vehicles as part of the Hindu celebrations
The streets have been full of these dressed up vehicles as part of the Hindu celebrations

The ride today was from Amritsar to New Delhi, a distance of 518km. As we progressed it involved passing through smallller townships which were very hectic and crowed at times.

Unfortunetly Steve had an incident with 2 buses as he passed one, another tried to squeeze by in the opposite direction resulting in him being clipped by a bus on his left hand side damaging his pannier which required a bit of roadside repairs. Fortunately Syeve did not go down and was all ok.

The roads finally opened up into a more significant route making the progress ok until we go to the last 50km which took 2hrs due to significant Delhi traffic. This traffic was compounded by the start of a 7 day Hindu festival in which devotees walked along the roadside with support vehicles and music playing which through the already bad traffic into chaos.

As we made our way towards Delhi we started to experience rain which we had been clear of since the 2nd day we arrived in Spain a couple of months earlier! I suppose we were due rain sooner or later. Ha

Unfortunetly due to the design of our BMW motorbikes being air cooled they required forward motion to have air passing over them to contain the temperature. The result of the traffic jams for an extended period meant we were forced to park up the bikes on several occasions and allow them to cool before progressing. Not what you want after a long ride in very hot and humid conditions.

Steve's pannier box after a confrontation with a bus
Steve’s pannier box after a confrontation with a bus

 

Steve with a huge audience while he repairs his pannier box.
Steve with a huge audience while he repairs his pannier box.

We finally made it to our destination which was located on the Southern side of New Delhi as we have an appointment with the BMW dealer to have the bikes serviced in the coming day(s).

Statistics For The Week;

Distance travelled:  1,600km

Average Speed for trip: 57.5km/h

Average Fuel Consumption To Date: 4.5 litre per 100km

@ 9 August 2015- India

Time for a hair cut and shave in Amritsar
Time for a hair cut and shave in Amritsar

Today was a slow day, chilled out and I took time to have a hair cut, shave and head and shoulder massage at a traditional barber. Highly recommend all the blokes out there taking the opportunity to experience this if you visit India.  The process took about 1 1/2hrs and you feel great after.

The rest of the day was taking up with discussing where to travel in India with a couple of other guests at the hotel we were staying at and also bidding farewell to our German friends Ralf and Yin who were off towards Bangladesh and then onto China by train and bus! We wish them well.

 

@ 7 August 2015- Pakistan to India

Amritsar which is a typical Indian township scene
Amritsar which is a typical Indian township scene
Amritsar and the also typical piles of rubbish which needs to change.
Amritsar and the also typical piles of rubbish which needs to change.

The ride today should be straight forward as we have a 30km ride to the Wagah boarder crossing into India and then another 30km’s to reach our destination of Amritsar.

We managed to get ourselves sorted and out of town reasonably early (around 08:00am) which makes life easier as the traffic tends to be lighter.

We arrived at the boarder and the exit from Pakistan went pretty straight forward, however the customs guys did have a good “poke around” with our luggage.  So it was then onto the Indian side of the crossing but things did not progress as quickly as we quickly realised that Indian’s love bureaucracy and a boarder crossing is the best place to demonstrate how bureaucratic you can get. Ha Ha

It took 3.5hrs to clear the Indian side boarder. We finally started to get angry and informed the customs officers that we will be posting on Facebook how badly visitors are treated at the boarder and we would note their specific names! This certainly got things moving with several officers searching for stamps (we need to get the bikes cleared at each crossing) and we were promptly allowed to leave. Threatening to post on Facebook is a great trick should you have issues like this we find.

In the process of us being held up by customs the German’s overtook us and made it to Amritsar by public transport before we arrived.

Amritsar was a breath of fresh air compared to our journey through Pakistan and I for one was Very relieved to be clear of such a high risk environment. A BIG shout out of thanks to our dear friend Kate MacCallion who provided detailed information in the lead up to our journey through Pakistan and the risks we faced.

The hotel we stayed at had a lovely garden courtyard which was great to just sit back and relax. The humidity was very high, however the temps had backed off to the low 30’s.

Now to relax and enjoy athe next couple of days in Amritsar